Cincinnati to Chicago

  

After being a bit horrified by the tube of Anal-Ese we found on the headboard of our bed (no, it wasn’t ours), we checked out of our nondescript motel and had a similarly nondescript fast food breakfast before briefly exploring downtown Cincinnati.

I really want to spend more time here. It’s one of those midwestern cities I love, the ones that used to be much bigger and more important than they are now, and look it. Most people know Cincinnati — if they know it at all — as the headquarters of Kroger and the home of WKRP. But it has a pretty massive and attractive downtown area surrounded by interesting neighborhoods in varying stages between scary decay and scary gentrification.

We also found another great radio station that played the Dead Milkmen and the Pixies, and which has apparently switched to a considerably less tolerable format since our trip.

  

After a stop by Pamida, we made our way to Indianapolis to have lunch with my friend Bob. Those of you who have been reading the site for a long time may remember that Bob made the suggestion that led to my first online cross-country road trip in 1997. Thus, Indy has always been a necessary stop on any trip that takes me in the general vicinity.

We had lunch at an MCL Cafeteria that was much better than the one in Columbus, and then took the nickel tour of Indianapolis, including my favorite old Kroger on Tenth Street.

We arrived in Chicago to find that every road into the city was under construction. It’s amazing the detrimental effect that having only two lanes of freeway capacity into the third largest city in America will have, even on a Sunday night. We finally made it to our Best Western in the Rogers Park/Loyola area, and were amazed at how nice (and cheap) the room was. We had dinner nearby, stopped by Dominicks for provisions, and called it a night.

On the Road

Early tomorrow morning, we’re off to Chicago, Detroit, Toronto, and assorted points in between and on the way. I will not be answering email and I will not be posting from the road. So don’t expect this space to change much in the next two weeks.

Au revoir.

Preservation, My Ass

Far be it from me to rain on San Francisco’s parade, but — with the exception of this one — almost every story (and video) I’ve seen about this week’s opening of new mall on Market Street suggests that it was some sort of historic preservation triumph that saved the old Emporium store.

It just ain’t true.

Despite all the grand pronouncements from city leaders about how great it is to be standing in the middle of it, there is no Emporium store left. It was torn down in 2004. The only things that remain from the building are the Market Street facade and the interior dome, and even the dome has been relocated. No other walls were spared, nor was anything else other than these two architectural features.

It’s nice that SF has its spiffy new mall, because heaven knows San Francisco needs nothing quite so much as it needs another mall. It’s lovely they integrated these features into the new building they built. But the old Emporium building is not there anymore. It’s just plain silly to pretend that it is. I won’t make an argument about whether that’s good or bad, but can someone please at least acknowlege that it’s a fact?

S&M, Boys to Men, Etc.

Unearthed on a photo expedition over the weekend: the tattered remains of Winston-Salem’s first leather bar.

OK, maybe not. But it was found just three blocks from this building, which, ummm, separates the men from the boys:

Downtown Winston-Salem. Your home for unintentional architectural homoeroticism. Or stupid jokes. You be the judge.

The Big Urban Essay

To many urban planners — and assorted admirers thereof — the term “urban” is synonymous with “density” and “pedestrian- and transit-oriented”. Unfortunately, their analysis of what is and is not urban too often stops there. Which is unfortunate.

While many urban places are indeed very dense and pedestrian-oriented, and while these are often very desirable characteristics, I would argue that the only true and valid definition of “urban” is “variety”. By that, I mean a variety of people, of building types and ages and uses, of foods and other goods, of income levels, and of texture.

Without variety, you don’t have anything even remotely urban.

Cities are not planned. They are chaotic living organisms which prefer to grow in certain unencumbered organic patterns. Like plants, if they are over-trimmed, or repeatedly pruned into unnatural shapes, they will eventually either die or (at best) lose any natural appeal.

If a city is willing to bulldoze an area and rebuild it from scratch according to a well-conceived master plan, and is given enough money, much of it coming from the government in the form of tax breaks and other incentives, then creating a lively urban atmosphere from scratch is not difficult at all.

It’s impossible.

Far too many planners, both professional and “armchair”, have the mistaken notion that “increased density” is some sort of cure-all for ever imaginable urban ill. This is particularly common in sunbelt cities like Charlotte and Anaheim and Orlando, which want desperately to be perceived as “urban”, but prefer not to have old and unsightly areas near downtown. It’s a new version of the same old mentality that brought us “urban renewal” in the 1950s and 1960s. It didn’t work then, and it doesn’t work now.

The mere fact that a suburban-style shopping center is built with a more compact footprint in an inner-city location (and perhaps with some overpriced housing above it) does not make for an urban development. It makes only for a slightly denser suburban development on slightly more expensive land.

Conversely, a road packed with dowdy old shopping centers from the 1950s and 1960s which now house “unsightly” tacquerias, thrift stores, ethnic groceries, and furniture outlets is not anti-urban at all. In fact, such an area is in my view considerably more urban than a sterile stucco-clad Best Buy or Target with a few condos tastefully arranged around a central courtyard.

Yet cities around the country invariably prefer the former to the latter.

The old shopping center district is considered “blighted”, despite the fact that nearly every storefront is occupied by a revenue-producing, tax-paying business. It is far better public policy, the city decides, to offer subsidies to developers who will bring in chain retailers to serve the…ahem…general public, as long as they will do so according to a set of transit-oriented design principles foisted onto a city that will never be truly transit-friendly.

The new urbanist dream development must, by definition, be more “urban” because it has no parking lot in front and because the buildings reach all the way to the lot line, right? Never mind that none of the stores have entrances or even windows facing the sidewalk — nor that the sidewalk goes no farther than the end of the shopping center to begin with. Never mind that the “variety” of the center is limited to a choice between Whole Foods or Dean & Delucca. And, of course, never mind how many locally-owned businesses may have been displaced by this (usually subsidized) developer’s wet dream.

Urban is variety. You cannot have variety in a massive new development that is all built at one time. It just doesn’t work; the economics aren’t there. Start-ups can’t afford the rent. Even existing businesses often can’t afford to “trade up”. Besides, almost all of these developments aim at “upscale” shoppers and residents; “chains” in this case doesn’t mean Dollar Tree or Check Into Cash.

Variety requires the occasional old and unsightly building. Jane Jacobs recognized this nearly fifty years ago and most cities still haven’t caught up. There need to be new buildings too, of course, lest a creeping paralysis set in. But wholesale revitalization and reconstruction just doesn’t work. It never has. It never will.

Turn of the century planner Daniel Hudson Burnham was famous for saying “make no small plans.” He was wrong. The mantra of planners and urbanists should be “make no large plans.” Large plans destroy variety, which eliminates urbanity and kills cities.

Large-scale “historic preservation” schemes are almost as bad. They limit variety both physically, by limiting any variation in building appearances to one specific period in the past, and economically, through gentrification and disallowing certain businesses which might spoil “the mood”. Those buildings which are insufficiently decorative or happen to have been built in the wrong decade are deemed unworthy of preservation despite the fact that they may well have contributed more to the history and culture of the area than dozens of other “cuter” buildings that are spared.

I’m not against cute little pedestrian-friendly streetscapes. In fact, I’m very much in favor of them. But you can’t build them from scratch, no matter how hard you try. They must evolve over time. And by insisting on massive, overplanned “infill” developments, cities eliminate most of the possibility of that ever happening. Here’s a hint: if it involves tearing down several blocks of occupied buildings, it ain’t infill.

It’s the very same “urban renewal” mindset that, in the 1950s, destroyed many of the very streetcar strips which would seem such attractive pedestrian-oriented areas today if they were still standing. They were deemed “unsightly” and “outmoded” in the 1950s, despite the fact that many of them were still income-producers as well.

Will auto-oriented 1950s shopping centers ever have the “cool” factor that 1920s streetcar strips have today? Maybe not, but the fact that they are of a currently-unfashionable architectural vintage should not be grounds for their wholesale municipally-sanctioned (or municipally-mandated) destruction.

Urban is variety. Without a variety of buildings, old and new, and even some marginal uses, you don’t have an urban setting. Without an intermingling of people with different ethnic and economic backgrounds, and without some plain, old-fashioned ugly, junky stores serving (gasp) poor people, you do not have a city. You have a big, dense, suburb masquerading as a theme park version of a city.

If it sounds like I advocate leaving cities alone to develop in their own way, maybe that’s because I do, by and large.

Essays

As long as I’m completing long-unfinished essays that may piss people off today, I might as well go ahead with this one too. I think most of my regulars will recognize that this is not a rant against people with HIV, but one against certain institutions that seem to believe HIV is the only devastating disease on the planet these days.

While I’m at it, I’ve decided upon re-reading it that this one is ready to go to as well. I present for your perusal The Big Urban Essay.

Yes, I’ve been busy today. There’s even new content over at Groceteria.

Jane Jacobs: 1916-2006

Today, some very good things are happening for me, which I’ll talk about at some later point.

But I’m also very sad. Jane Jacobs, who was without question the past century’s most important voice on urban planning and other issues died this morning in her adopted hometown of Toronto. It’s difficult to express how much her ideas and writings have influenced the way I think about cities. And I think about cities a lot, so she was a pretty major figure in my world. Jane Jacobs was one of those few famous people on earth I would really like to have met and talked with at some point in my life. In fact, she was probably number one on that list.

This paragraph from The Death and Life of Great American Cities, originally composed in 1961 to describe the destruction wrought by the urban renewal programs of the previous decade, rings even truer today:

But look what we have built with the first several billions: Low-income projects that become worse centers of delinquency, vandalism and general social hopelessness than the slums they were supposed to replace. Middle-income housing projects which are truly marvels of dullness and regimentation, sealed against any buoyancy or vitality of city life. Luxury housing projects that mitigate their inanity, or try to, with a vapid vulgarity. Cultural centers that are unable to support a good bookstore. Civic centers that are avoided by everyone but bums, who have fewer choices of loitering places than others. Commercial centers that are lack-luster imitations of standardized suburban chain-store shopping. Promenades that go from no place to nowhere and have no promenaders. Expressways that eviscerate great cities. This is not the re-building of cities. This is the sacking of cities.

She was equally comfortable fighting leftist utopian and right-wing anti-urban foes. She stood up to Robert Moses and won, something no one had really attempted before. She wrote a book that should be — and now, finally, is — required reading for anyone entering the field of urban planning. She just “got it” in a way very few people ever have.

The world needs a Jane Jacobs in it as much (or more) today as it did forty years ago. She will be very much missed.